- Built from a single 4’ x 8’ sheet of 3/4" plywood with just 14 cuts
- Includes integrated storage shelf, adjustable shelf, and paper tray
- Finish with paint, stain, or a combination — the black and maple look is especially sharp
- Pocket hole joinery throughout — no glue required, fully disassemble for finishing or moving
This attractive and functional computer desk is built using only one sheet of plywood and 14 cuts which makes it an easy and affordable desk that can be built with a few tools.
You can stain and finish it to reveal the natural wood grain, paint it any color you’d like or mix painting and staining as in the black and maple desk example shown below. The desk provides ample space for your computer and accessories as well as storage space for books, paper and other items you’ll want to have handy while working on your computer. All this from just a single sheet of plywood!
Dimensions
What You’ll Need
Materials
Cut List
Please note that if making the desk out of 4 sheets of 2’ x 4’ plywood that some of the dimensions will be slightly different. Quarter sheet dimensions are in parenthesis when they differ.
| Part | Qty | Full-sheet dimensions | Quarter-sheet dimensions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Desk Top | 1 | 48" × 23-15/16" | 48" × 24" (one whole quarter sheet) |
| Sides | 2 | 26-1/8" × 23-15/16" | 24" × 26-1/4" |
| Apron | 1 | 46-1/2" × 12" | 46-1/2" × 12-1/4" |
| Front | 2 | 46-1/2" × 1-11/16" | 46-1/2" × 1-1/2" |
| Shelf | 1 | 48" × 10" | |
| Storage Side | 1 | 21-5/8" × 12" | |
| Storage Bottom & Storage Shelf | 2 | 21-5/8" × 11-7/8" | |
| Shelf Sides | 2 | 10" × 5-7/8" | 10" × 5-15/16" |
| Paper Tray | 1 | 10" × 11-7/8" | 11-1/2" × 10" |
| Paper Tray Supports | 4 | 1-3/8" × 5-7/8" | 2 will be 7/8" × 5-7/8" |
Cut Plan
You can either cut the desk out of one full 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood or 4 2’ x 4’ quarter sheets of plywood. If you’re using quarter sheets the formaldehyde-free PureBond 3/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Maple Plywood can be shipped directly to your home from HomeDepot.com and is eligible for free shipping.
Full Sheet
If using a full sheet of plywood, break down the sheet into three smaller sections by making the 2 cross cuts highlighted in red. First make the 48" cut, followed by the 26-1/8" cut. You can also break down the three sections further. The 48" and 26-1/8" section can be cut exactly in half (23-15/16 accounting for the 1/8" kerf) but the last section is not exactly in half (24").
Quarter Sheet
You save a little bit of money by buying one full sheet but it might be more convenient to purchase 4 quarter sheets instead. The smaller sheets are easier to transport and you can even have them delivered to you for free. If you’re picking up the plywood you could have the store make some convenience cuts for you but the quality and accuracy of the cuts will depend greatly on the condition of the blade and how good the person operating the panel saw is at making accurate cuts. These convenience cuts are not guaranteed to be accurate.
General Instructions
It’s important to know how to use all your tools and follow all the safety recommendations. This project consists of simple cuts but it’s important to make sure to measure and cut each piece carefully. Square cuts in the plywood will make for a stronger desk. It’s not necessary to glue the desk together as the pocket screws will provide sufficient strength and allow you to disassemble the desk at a later point if necessary. You will need to cut and assemble the desk first, then it is highly recommended to break it down again for finishing.
Step 1: Cut & Edge-Band the Main Panels
Cut out the Desk Top, Sides, Storage Side, Storage Shelf, Storage Bottom, Apron and Front. Apply veneer edgebanding to all edges of the Desk Top, the 2 long edges of each Side and the front edges of the Storage Shelf, Bottom and Side.
Decide which side you’d like the storage to be on, the left or right, then choose that Side piece and the Storage side and drill a series of holes part way into the insides of the plywood for the shelf pins using either a piece of peg board or a shelf pin jig.
Step 2: Attach Sides to Desk Top
Arrange the desk top and legs on the floor with the good faces facing out. Drill 5 pocket holes on the inside tops of each leg. The first hole towards the front should be about 1" in while the one towards the back should be about 1/2" in to accommodate the front strip and modesty panel (apron).
Align and secure each leg to the bottom of the desk top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Make sure the sides are attached square to the top. Using the right angle clamp helps a lot.
Step 3: Attach the Front Strip
Attach the front strip flush to the front of the desk using 4 pocket holes with 1-1/4" screws on the back to attach to the sides and 3 3/4" corner braces with 1/2" flat head wood screws to attach to the top as shown below.
Step 4: Attach Storage Side & Apron
Drill holes for pocket screws in the Storage Side and Apron (modesty panel) as shown. There is also a pocket hole going from the inside of the Storage Side into the Front which is not visible. First attach the Storage Side. Use the Storage Bottom as a guide to determine how far away it needs to be from the Side of the desk. Note that the Storage Side will butt up against the Front piece but will not extend all the way to the back of the desk.
Once you’ve attached the Storage Side, attach the Apron using pocket screws into the Sides and Top and from the Storage Side into the Apron. The Storage Bottom and Storage Side have the same depth, use the Storage Bottom as a guide on the opposite side of the Storage Side to press the Apron against so you screw it in straight.
Remember, the Apron will not sit flush with the back of the desk. Here’s a rear view.
Step 5: Attach Storage Bottom & Install Levelers
Attach the Storage Bottom using 1-1/4" pocket holes as shown. If you’re installing the optional leveler feet do so now.
The main part of the desk is now complete.
Step 6: Assemble the Shelf
Cut out the components for the Shelf. These include the Shelf, 2 Shelf Sides, Paper Tray and Tray Supports. Apply veneer edging all the way around the Shelf, on 3 edges of the Paper Tray (not the edge touching the side), on the 2 short edges of each Side and on the 2 long edges of each of the Tray Supports.
Begin shelf assembly by attaching the two Shelf Sides to the Shelf Top using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown.
Step 7: Install Tray Supports
Drill 1 pocket hole in each of the tray supports to attach it to the top. The pocket holes should be on the inside of the support. Use the Paper Tray butted up against the side where you’d like to install as a guide to determine how far away the Supports should be. The tray supports should be evenly spaced 1.5" apart with the two end pieces flush with the edges of the Shelf Top.
Step 8: Attach the Paper Tray
Now attach the paper tray at the midpoint of the sides and supports to split the space evenly using 1-1/4" pocket hole screws as shown. 3 into the Shelf Side and 1 into each Tray Support.
Step 9: Mount Shelf to Desk with Shelf Pins
To prevent the shelf from sliding around on the desk but still be able to easily remove the shelf at a later point if desired we’ll be using 2 shelf pins to anchor the shelf to the desk.
Begin by placing the shelf on top of the desk and aligning it flush with the sides and the back of the desk top. Using a pencil, mark a vertical line halfway into the shelf side extending down into the side of the desk top as shown.
Use a square to transfer the marking onto the desk top as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Measure in 3/8" on that line and mark it. Using the shelf pin drill bit drill a hole into the top of the desk as well as the bottom of the shelf side. Do this on both ends for a total of 4 holes, 1 in each shelf side bottom, and two on the desk top.
Take your time and be very careful with these measurements so they line up properly. Once you have all 4 holes drilled, fine tune them by slightly deepening or widening the holes in the Shelf Sides. Finally insert a shelf pin in each hole on the Desk Top and slide the Shelf onto them.
Step 10: Finish the Desk
Your desk is now complete and is ready to be finished with either primer/paint or stain/polyurethane or a combination of the two. It will be easier to finish some sections if you take the desk apart first. Just follow these directions backwards to take everything apart. Then follow the directions on how to put all the pieces together again.
Reader Builds
Built one yourself? I'd love to see it. Share your photos in the comments or tag TomBuildsStuff on Pinterest.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I build this desk without a table saw?
Yes. A circular saw with a straight-edge guide clamped to the plywood gives you accurate rip cuts. It takes a bit more setup time per cut but the results are just as good if you’re careful with your layout. A track saw is even easier if you have access to one.
Do I need to glue the joints?
No. The pocket hole screws alone provide plenty of strength and have the added benefit of letting you disassemble the desk later — which is actually useful when it comes time to finish it. If you do want to glue, just know it’s a permanent decision.
What thickness plywood should I use?
3/4" throughout. The cut list and all the pocket hole settings assume 3/4" stock. Keep in mind that actual plywood thickness is often slightly under nominal — 23/32" is common. If yours is significantly undersized, check your Kreg jig settings before drilling.
What is the best finish for a plywood desk?
For a painted finish, prime with a shellac-based primer first to seal the plywood and prevent bleed-through, then topcoat with a water-based enamel. For a stained look, a water-based polyurethane over the stain works well and dries fast. The black and maple example uses both — paint on the base, stain and poly on the top surface.
Can I change the desk dimensions?
Within reason. The design is sized to fit out of one 4’ x 8’ sheet, so major changes to the width or depth will likely require a second sheet. The height is easy to adjust by changing the side panel dimensions — standard desk height is 29"–30" for most people, though 33-1/2" works well as a standing desk for shorter users.
What type of veneer edgebanding should I use?
Pre-glued iron-on veneer edgebanding in a species that matches your plywood face veneer. If you’re using maple plywood, use maple edgebanding. It comes in rolls, applies with a household iron, and trims cleanly with a sharp utility knife or a dedicated edge trimmer. Plan on about 50 linear feet for this project.
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